In ancient times the Maremma was a marshland, so much
so that during Medieval and Feudal times the cities built on the Etruscan
and Roman remains where abandoned in favour of fortified hamlets inland.
Thanks to reclamation carried out in the 19th century, the region offers
one of the most fertile countries of Tuscany, with its fields of wheat
and beautiful farmhouses scattered throughout as well as cities rich
in history perched on hilltops, among them Campagnatico. Campagnatico
is a typical Medieval town, both in its urban structure and in its strategic
position. It stands on a rise, planted with olive trees, that drops
off sharply to the east over the Ombrone Valley. The ancient castle
belonging to the Aldobrandeschi family from Sovana was mentioned in
Canto XI of Dante's Purgatory.
...
L'antico sangue e l'opere leggiadre
d'i miei maggior mi fer sì arrogante,
che, non pensando a la comune madre,
ogn'uomo ebbi in despetto tanto avante
ch'io ne morì, come i Sanesi sanno
e sallo in Campagnatico ogni fante
Io sono Omberto;
...
Dante Alighieri - Divina Commedia - Canto XI, Purgatorio
It subsequently passed into the hands of the Tolomei who
were particularly keen on controlling this extremely fertile land. Campagnatico,
along with the rest of the Maremma, suffered greatly as the result of
various wars and calamities.
It declined in the Medieval period and returned to prosperity under
the government of the Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo I di Lorena who gave
it an agricultural reform abolishing the great landed estates, actuated
the rebuilding of the biggest part of the run down buildings, and promoting
the building of a printing house, a watchmakers and a glassworks. The
entire area is abundant in Mediterranean scrub and the rolling hills
are planted with vineyards and olive groves that yield excellent wine
and oil. Today Campagnatico is the principal town of a wide area that
includes not only the charming Medieval town of Montorsaio, but numerous
villages that keep local traditions alive by staging fairs, pageants
and celebrations for their patron saints that offer the tourist a chance
to partake in the spirit of these hospitable and friendly people. The
traditional civil and religious celebrations in honour of Maria Santissima
delle Grazie are held in Campagnatico during the first half of September.
During these festivities, the four town districts (Santa Maria, Castello,
Centro and Pieve) challenge one another in the "Palio dei Ciuchi"
(Donkey race), initiated in 1957. This remarkable donkey race is preceded
by a parade in medieval costumes through the town streets and is followed
by the presentation of an artistic trophy to the winning district.
The church San Giovanni Battista is set on the ruins of the defensive
system of the fortress, whose tower is used as a bell tower. It is an
interesting building from the transition time between Romanesque and
Gothic. It is a single nave building with raised presbytery and chapels
framed by wide ogivals arches. The main door is lintelled under an adorned
round arch. On the top of the façade there is a bichrome wall
decoration where is a smart rose window. Inside there is a "Madonna
and Child" attributed to Guido di Graziano; a wooden ciborium with
holy elements adorned wickets from the XVI century and some frescos
of Santa Maria delle Grazie's church, representing "Stories of
the Holy Virgin", by Cristoforo di Bindoccio (1393). (Continue...)
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