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The complex of San Rabano Abbey, situated between
Lecci Mount ( Poggio Lecci ) and Alto Mount ( Poggio Alto), was indicated
at the time it was being built, at the beginning of the seventeenth
century, as Monasterium Arboriense or Monasterium de Arboresio or Alberese.
The construction work of the Abbey terminated in 1587. The complex,
dated back to the beginning of the eleventh century as a Benedictine
settlement, reached the highest point of development during the following
century by the Benedictine Cistercians. The choice of the location was
in relation to a plan of territorial control, of utilization of the
resources, and economical development. Not far from the Abbey was the
Queens road ( Strada della Regina), which linked the old Aurelia
and the sea.
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The first document concerning the abbey which
we know is dated the 7th of April 1101 and it is the resolution given
by the Pope of a disagreement between Roselle Bishop and the Abbot for
what concerned the collection of church tithes from the first on the
territory of the second. On this document the monastery is indicated
probably as a building that was still being constructed, and not yet
completed. The growth and importance of the Abbey have developed after
1101: in the successive years, San Rabano reached the maximum development
and Pope Innocenzo 2nd gave the abbot the control of all the reformed
monasteries on the Lazio borders. During the XII century the Benedictine
order had a period of crisis which led to the abandonment of many monasteries.
San Rabano was likely to have had this crisis, but the lack of documentation
does not allow to know for certain what happened to the Abbey during
these particular years. On the 30th of January 1303, Pope Bonifacio
8th ordered Pisa Priorate ( Priorato Pisano) of the Jerusalem Knights
( Cavalieri of Gerusalemme) to vigil, look after, defend, and administrate
the lands and the monastery in Alberese ( in the original Italian:
vigilare, custodire, defender, amministrare le terre e il monastero
di Alberese). In a document dated the 30th of January 1307, the
place is still called monastery, while in a successive document of the
18th of October 1336 the word Fort ( Fortilizio) is used for the first
time. The fortification, now visible as the raising of the brickworks
with battlements, is therefore likely to have occurred at same point
between the two dates. Considering that for a short period between 1321
the monastery was under the domain of the Abati Family, tyrants of Grosseto
for a few years from 1312, historians tried to find who had started
the building work: from an accurate analysis of the construction methods,
the fortification seems to be the work of the Knights of Jerusalem (
Gerosolimitani). In the fourteenth century the domain of the fort was
cause of disagreements between Sienna ( Siena) and Pisa and in 1438
Sienna, which was now the absolute owner of the area, dismantled the
abbey and moved the seat of the Priorato to the new structures of Alberese
in 1475. The architectonic complex is composed of a church with a monastery
and a sighting tower called of Uccellina. For the restoration
works there were two main shipyards. Part of the building material was
reclaimed and the building itself is likely to have been based on the
pre-existing structures, although there is no real evidence of this.
The first shipyard can be referred to the end of XI century, while the
other to the second half of XII century. The church had a cruciform
base with tie beams and vaults in the transepts. The cross-shaped vault
of the nave is dated back to the second shipyard, as well as the tower
bell and the dome. Particularly interesting is the covering system,
partly fallen down, of the central nave, which is considered one of
the ancient examples of vaults in Tuscany.
The heavy covering is built in stones and supported by big slabs which
lean directly onto the walls of the nave through capitals. Very beautiful
was also the alo tiburio of the dome which some historians
said to be of Byzantine style although made during the Romanic Lombard
time. There are also different opinions regarding the exact period and
date of the engraves on the arch of the portal and apsidal window: some
people believe them to be high-medieval and others of later periods.
Stylistic doubts remain also as for the string course of the architrave
of the portal. The part facing East is composed by a central apse and
two smaller ones at the sides, engraved with suspended arches immediately
below the ceiling. The tower-bell string course is definitely Romanic
Lombard, but some alterations have certainly occurred above the mullioned
windows with two lights, due to the raising of that part of the building,
which might have taken place during the fortification of the whole complex.
The interiors are particularly suggestive and comprehend a flight of
stair, which goes up all along the walls with six flight of stairs leaning
onto the arches supported by columns and pillars. Only the first flight
of stairs is original, whilst the others have been altered during the
restauration work in 1972. The monastery has not been preserved in good
conditions and only recent excavations have allowed historians to understand
what the whole complex would have been like in the past. It is possible
to see the ruins of a central courtyard with cistern, a big driveway
and a small one, and an area with furnace near the Uccellina tower,
considered the oldest centre in the complex and completely included
in the successive brickworks. A few traces in the woods are left of
the surrounding inhabited area, along with some cisterns and walls.

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